Posted by Matthew Yu on Thu, Mar 04, 2010 @ 05:40 PM
All vehicles are equipped with an anti-lock brake (ABS) systems that prevents the wheels on a motor vehicle from locking up while braking. An ABS is composed of a electronic control unit (ECU), four wheel speed sensors, and two or more hydraulic valves within the brake hydraulics. The ECU monitors the speed of each wheel and when it detects a wheel rotating slower than the others it then actuates the valves to reduce hydraulic pressure to the brake at the affected wheel which then reduces the braking force on that wheel. It works in the opposite manner for a wheel that turns faster than the others. This process is repeated continuously and can be detected by the driver through the brake pedal pulsation.
You should have your brakes bled when your brake system is opened to replace components such as calipers, wheel cylinders, the master cylinder, brake lines or hoses. Manufacturers usually specify that brakes should be bled every two years, starting from the date the vehicle was built. The most common bleeding procedure is to bleed the brake furthest from the master cylinder first, then bleed the other brake that shares the same hydraulic circuit. After these have been bled, you then bleed the other brake circuit starting with the furthest brake from the master cylinder. Typically, this would mean RR, LR, RF, then LF. However, it doesn't really matter if you start with the front or rear wheels, since they are on separate brake circuits on modern cars with ABS and/or dynamic stability control systems. However, you should start with the passenger side wheel and then do the driver's side.
Why must this procedure be done and how does it benefit you the driver?
- Fresh brake fluid has a significantly higher boiling point than old fluid, allowing harder braking without fade.
- That same moisture promotes corrosion. Frequent bleeding with fresh fluid allows brake components to last longer.
- A well maintained brake system could help you avoid ever having to replace calipers, master cylinder or an expensive ABS control unit.
- The bleeding process, done properly, removes air bubbles from the hydraulic system resulting in better brake pedal feel and more responsive braking performance.
- Too much air in the system can be dangerous and result in the pedal sinking all the way to the floor. Air is compressible while brake fluid is not.
Volkswagen has made it even simpler for you by providing this procedure to been carried our by a diagnostic scan tool! Below you will find the instructions on how to process the ABS Brake Bleeding with screenshots from the AUTOBOSS PC Max scan tool:
1) Select "03 - ABS Brakes"
2) Then "Introduction to Basic Settings - 04"
3) Enter Group 001 (Golf, GTI, Jetta, and Audi TT) or 002 (Passat and Audi A4/S4, A6/S6, and A8/S8)
4) Click "Go"
This will trigger the ABS pump to turn on for about 10 seconds. You should hear the fairly loud pump clicking during this time.
Click the "Done or Go Back" button and you're all set!
Posted by Matthew Yu on Thu, Feb 25, 2010 @ 04:57 PM
Anti-theft systems have been around since individuals began stealing other people's property and have evolved accordingly to thwart increasingly complex methods of theft. Nissan vehicles come equipped with what is called NATS (Nissan Anti-Theft Systems) immobiliser. It is an advanced multi-random code hopping alarm system with anti-towing sensors, high-powered siren and electronic override touch key. They can be deactivated by a plug-in dongle, touch key, card, but most modern cars have a chip built into the key that is programmed to your vehicle that says you can start the car with it. Any other key, whether it fits the door or ingition, and does not have this gadget will not work.
All immobilisers work on the same principal of disconnecting 1 or more circuits usually starter, ignition and fuel pump. The ignition barrel has a coil of wire around it, and this gets a signal from the correct key when inserted into the lock and the electronic control box then connects all the circuits so you can start the car. When you remove the key, the immobiliser is activated automatically. Some systems can be bypassed, some are impossible without changing very expensive parts, and reprogramming. Because of the chips in new keys, it is also a lot harder to get a new one cut and programmed. Almost becoming a dealer only option on some models, hence very expensive especially those with remote buttons built in.
That is why some scan tool developers have implemented the capability to reprogram new keys to your NATS immobiliser so that you may be able to take your vehicle to your local repair shop to process jobs that previously was only capable for the manufacturer dealers.
You MUST process key programming when replacing any of the following items:
- NATS ignition key
- ECM
- Immobiliser
Below you will see how to program your NATS immobiliser and car key:
Posted by Matthew Yu on Thu, Feb 18, 2010 @ 03:56 PM
Most vehicles use standard halogen light bulbs compared to some VW / Audi cars which are equipped with High-Intensity Discharge (HID) lights; commonly called 'xenon headlamps'; which unlike Halogen or Incandescent bulbs, HID bulbs do NOT have filaments. HID is not just a new type of bulb. It is a whole new lighting system.
HID headlamps are more cost effective over time. Even with the initial price of HID headlamps costing significantly more than halogen the substantially lower energy consumption and lower lamp replacement and maintenance expenses make HID the best economic choice. Many have noted that the almost complete darkness on isolated highways as a reason for why HID lighting is becoming popular. They also promote safety by providing a better overall view of the roadway by the lights rotating with the steering direction.
When it comes to replacing the HID headlamps a calibration is needed to align with the steering using a scan tool. This procedure cycles the motorized headlamp adjusters to their center position so that the beams can be adjusted. This does NOT align the headlamps by itself. You still need to manually adjust the headlamps via the adjusting screws as referenced against a suitable aiming target. Below you will find step by step porcedures on how to calibrate your light using the AUTOBOSS V30 / PC Max scan tool:
1) There are certain test conditions that must be met before doing this procedure:
- Vehicle must be parked on level ground and "settled" on its suspension
- Parking brake should be OFF
- Ignition should be in the "On" position
- Headlamps should be "Off"
2) Enter VW or Audi software and select "With CANbus" or Without CANbus" depending on your vehicle make
3) Select "Common"
4) Then choose "55- Xenon Range"
5) After choose "04 - Introduction to Basic Setting"
6) Enter Channel No. 001 and click "GO"
7) Wait at least 20 seconds for the headlamp motors to move. The headlamps are now in their adjustment position. Turn on headlights. Adjust them via their manual adjusting screws as referenced against a suitable aiming target.
8) Scroll up to Group 002
9) Click the "Done or Back" button
If this procedure is only partially performed, there may be a DTC stored in the Xenon Range memory indicating "Headlights not adjusted". To clear this, you need to complete the entire procedure.
Posted by Matthew Yu on Fri, Feb 05, 2010 @ 06:26 PM
Many vehicles on the road today have their tires inflated with the free air given away at gas stations. What they do not know is that the air they are pumping consist of 78% nitrogen, 21 % oxygen, and small amounts of other gases that release from your tires at a high rate resulting in under-inflation. If you went to a tire shop or repair facility that had a Nitrogen generator and paid to have your tires filled with pure nitrogen, being a larger molecule than oxygen, it diffuses through a tire wall 3 to 4 times slower than oxygen. Therefore, nitrogen can better retain tire pressure.
The thought of actually having to pay to fill your tires might not sound as enticing as "free" to the consumer but there are many benefits in having nitrogen in your tires.
- Better Fuel Mileage: Tires filled with air tend to deflate faster, increases rolling resistance and adds additional fuel consumption while Nitrogen inflated tires can maintain proper pressure and reduce rolling resistance. This translates into less gas mileage and less tire wear.
- Increase Safety & Reliability: Under-inflated tires are the major reasons for the blowouts and highway fatalities. Tires inflated with nitrogen can better maintain the proper tire pressure and reduce the chances of blowouts. This means less down-time and fewer service calls. More importantly, it saves lives.
- Reduce Corrosion & Increase Retreadability: Oxygen reacts chemically with inner liner, belt packages and metal rim at high temperature and pressure, forming oxides and rust. This oxidation will cause the tire materials to lose its strength and physical properties which result in premature failure. Nitrogen, on the other hand, is a completely dry and inert gas which eliminates the oxidation of the tire's rubber components and consequently extends the tire's life and the ability to retread your tires.
- Reduce Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) Alarms: Nitrogen migrates through a tire slower so TPMS alarms will not go off as often and nitrogen does not contain moisture or dirt as air often does. Therefore, it cause smaller fluctuations in the pressure and removing oxygen in the tire and replacing it with pure nitrogen will prevent oxidation which can attack expensive TPMS sensors.
Not only does it benefit the customer but as a business owner the return on investment can be achieve in a minimal amount of time and the profits are endless! See below for an example of how having a Nitrogen Generator in your shop can be of an advantage to your business.
Nitrogen is beneficial to your vehicle, tires, the consumer, and the environment all built into one package!
Posted by Matthew Yu on Thu, Jan 28, 2010 @ 07:17 PM
All cars have air suspension systems that serve a dual purpose – contributing to the car's roadhandling and braking for good active safety and driving pleasure. Mercedes vehicles are equipped with hydraulic systems that are called; depending on your vehicle make; AIRmatic or Active Body Control (ABC) system. This system automatically maintains your vehicle height level and adjust your car to provide higher safety conditions and comfort due to:
- Road conditions and drive style
- low center of gravity
- low aerodynamic drag equating to lower fuel consumption
- lowers car as speed increases and raises car as speed decreases
- additional weight in the vehicle
One of the hydraulic system parts are the struts. The ABC system uses air pressure to electronically control your struts and when it has been replaced air is still trapped in the struts so you must perform what is called a "Rodeo Test" or some may call it Hydraulic Suspension test. If the Rodeo test is not carried out then your suspension is not optimized and your vehicle may be not be as comfortable and not isolated from road noise, bumps, and vibrations when driving.
The Rodeo test applies to only Mercedes CL and S-class models. Below we have provided instructions with screenshots from the AUTOBOSS V30 / PC Max:
1) Select Cars
2)Choose either CL or S-class.
3) Then Chassis # corresponding to your car
4) Then the spcific model
5) Select "Control Units" then "Chassis"
6) "Active Body Control (ABC)"
7) Choose "Actuations"
8) Select "RODEO" and follow the prompts
Posted by Matthew Yu on Thu, Jan 21, 2010 @ 06:52 PM
Typically in the past when you needed an extra copy of your vehicle's key you would go to any hardware store and have them cut a copy for you. Yet just having the regular key entry into your vehicle did nothing to protect your vehicle from theft. Older theft deterrent systems such as car alarms are installed in your vehicles to attempt to discourage theft of the vehicle itself, the property inside, or both. As criminals become more advanced in car theft so did the automakers in developing the immobilizer. An immobilizer is located in the instrument cluster using a chip in your key with an antenna. If the immobilizer system is faulty or not programmed the car will shut off after two seconds, the anti-theft light on the dashboard will flash, or some later generations may also have a beeping noise paired with the anti-theft light flashing.
In VW, when buying or programming a new key, you must use a key that corresponds to the same immobilizer generation and keyless entry type and sync it to the immobilizer. The key has three separate parts that are included in one which are the keyless entry remote, the metal flip key, and the immobilizer chip. Each key must be correct to the car for the remote to work properly. You not only need to program the keyless entry you also have to program the immobilizer or else the immobilizer will shut off the engine. The immobilizer only allows your programmed key to lets the engine start it has nothing to do with unlocking the doors, the alarm, or the starter itself. If your key and immobilizer are programmed correctly and your car is not functioning in the manner it should then you must troubleshoot other reasons why the car won't start.
Before you can programming a new key you must first identify which generation of immobilizer has been installed in your vehicle. Depending on the variation in build dates and remote compatibility VW has four generations immobilizers to distinguish from:
- Immo 1: no immobilizer,vehicles before 1999 were not equipped on cars sold in the US; you can swap keys, ECU's, and instrument clusters without any special programming.
- Immo 2: found on mk4 (Generation 4) cars, you need Secret Key Code (SKC) to use a new key or instrument cluster, but you can still swap ECU's. There is an emergency drive function that will let you drive to the dealership or mechanic for them to fix but you must know the SKC code. You can buy a used key and it will work if you reprogram the immobilizer chip using the SKC.
- Immo 3: found on mk4 cars, you need SKC to use a new key, instrument cluster, or ECU. You cannot use used keys from another car since the immobilizer chip can only be set once per car.
- Immo 4: found on mk5 (Generation 5) cars, you need SKC to use a new key, instrument cluster, or ECU. You cannot use used keys from another car since the immobilizer chip can only be set once per car.
Once you have identified which generation of immobilizer your vehicle has then you can purchase the correct key to be programmed. This procedure which only factory level scan tools could previously do has been developed for the AUTOBOSS V30 / PC Max. Below are the instructions with screenshots from the AUTOBOSS scan tool:
1) Go to your VW software and select "Expert Functions"
2) Select "Read PIN (III IMMO from Engine)"; once the code is displayed remember to write it down for reference
3) Then go back to your main menu and select "Common"
4) Choose "25-Immobilizer" and select "11-Login Procedure"
5) Enter in the code we previously retrieved and it will unlock your module for your to process factory level changes in your vehicle"
6) Now we can begin programming the new keys. Gather ALL the remotes you would like to match. Insert one key in the ignition and turn it ON.
7) Select "46 - Cent. Conv." or "35 - Cent. Locking" (whichever is applicable to the car, as found here)
8) Then "Adaptation - 10" and enter channel "01" (May be channel "21" in some Audi models).
9) Read or OK ;This will display the number of currently stored remotes in "Stored Value".
10) Enter your total number of keys up to a maximum of 4(including any existing keys) in "New Value"
11) Select "Test" and verify that the number in "Test Value" is correct.
12) Save; then press and hold (for at least one second) the UNLOCK button on the fob, at which time it will be learned. If you're programming more than one fob press and hold the UNLOCK button on the second fob for one second, press and hold the UNLOCK button on the third fob for one second, etc. You have a total of 15 seconds to do them all.
The car may give you some sort of acknowledgement as each key is learned (lights flash, horn beep, etc.) and you have completed programming of a new key!
Posted by Matthew Yu on Fri, Jan 15, 2010 @ 05:58 PM
The On-Board Diagnostics System Generation II (OBD-II) is a computer equipped on most 1996 and newer vehicles. The system monitors the performance of the ignition, fuel metering, emissions systems, including the sensors, and monitors the system itself while the vehicle is being driven to ensure that all components are working as it should be. The OBD-II computer has the ability to identify a problem well before the driver may recognize symptoms. Before a vehicle is brought in for an official Smog Check the technician will run what is called a Readiness Test that assess how well the vehicle's emissions system is functioning.
"Readiness Monitors" are indicators that demonstrate whether or not emission system components are being monitored by the OBD-II system. These monitors also report to the OBD-II computer as being "ready" or "not ready". If they are "not ready," they are not yet in a condition to determine if the associated emissions systems are working correctly. When a vehicle is taken to an emissions inspection station to receive the Smog Check, the first thing the testing equipment does is check these monitors. For model year vehicles 1996-2000, a vehicle with two monitors that are "not ready" will be accepted for the OBD-II test and the test can continue; for model year vehicles 2001 and newer, only one "not ready" monitor will be accepted for testing and the test can continue. Any vehicle that has more than the allowable number of "not ready" monitors will be rejected from testing until the monitors have been set to "ready" which may be accomplished by performing a drive cycle specific to the vehicle or with VW / Audi you can perform a Readiness Monitor Test with a scan tool.
Drive cycles are unique and vary between different makes and models, there is no generic Drive Cycle. Be sure to consult your manual or manufacturer for the specific drive cycle for your vehicle. Before you can begin a drive cycle you must check the status of the Readiness Monitors. Then check for diagnostic trouble codes (DTC), if any exist correct those faults, and clear the DTC's before beginning.
The status of all readiness monitors is reset to "Not Ready" :
-
Each time DTC's are cleared.
-
The battery is disconnected.
-
The ECM is disconnected.
The status of all readiness monitors is reset to
"Ready" :
-
After DTC's are cleared and the appropriate drive cycle(s) is successfully completed.
For example from www.alldatapro.com they have provided instructions for a 1998 Acura Integra LS Drive Cycle:
For most vehicles you MUST process the standard drive cycle for your vehicle make. There is the exception of VW / Audi where you can use a dealer level scan tools to elimate the lengthy process of physically driving your car to reset your Readiness Monitors. An example below is the Readiness Code chart to be processed with a scan tool with a screenshot from the Autoboss V30 / PC Max for a 2001 VW Jetta:
Completing the Drive Cycle successfully one time should reset most drive cycle monitors to a "Ready" status. However, there are times which require that the drive cycle be successfully completed two times, to achieve a "Ready" status. Furthermore, systems which use averaging, may require the drive cycle to be completed more than 2 times. It is necessary to perform only as much of the Drive Cycle as is necessary to reset the required monitors to a "Ready" status.
Posted by Matthew Yu on Thu, Jan 07, 2010 @ 07:03 PM
There are so many electrical and mechanical components in your vehicle these days that work together in order to maximize engine performance and to minimize emissions. The fuel mixtures are controlled by an electrical computer called the Fuel Trim (FT) that receives information about the amount of oxygen present in the engine's exhaust from the oxygen sensor and sends signals to your Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The PCM then interprets and processes this information and informs the fuel delivery system to output the amount of fuel accordingly into the combustion chamber. The target is to produce a stoichiometric air-fuel ratio such that no extra fuel (rich) or extra carbon monoxide (lean) is produced. Fuel Trim was originated from OBD II to control the amount of pollutants released from your exhaust pipe according to the standards set by the FDA. OBD II computer basically uses the Fuel Trim system to compensate for the engine problems by adjusting the amount of time the fuel is injected into the combustion chamber (Engine Piston).
Why would something as simple as your air-fuel mixture need to be monitored? The original "closed loop" system that previously sent information to the PCM from the oxygen sensor did not allow the PCM a quick enough response to the rich and lean voltage signal. If engines operated at the same speed, conditions, load, RPM, etc. then the "closed loop" setup would work fine. Since there are many other variables to consider in the operation of your vehicle the PCM must be able to make adjustments to meet these standards. Fuel Trim controls the amount of oxygen and fuel mixture needed in response to changing engine operating condition.
In OBD II there are two types of Fuel Trim:
- Short Term Fuel Trim (SFT)
- Long Term Fuel Trim (LFT)
Short Term Fuel Trim adjust the air-fuel ratio in response to brief errors that occur during normal operation. For example, the oxygen sensor will produce a lower voltage signal if the engine has a small vacuum leak. The PCM interprets this as a too lean air-fuel mixture and the injector pulse width is increased slightly to compensate. Long Term Fuel Trim is designed to add or subtract fuel over a longer period of time. If the vacuum leak in the previous example were to continue or grow larger, fuel delivery would have to be further increased and continued for a longer period of time. The typical FT values may range from -10 to 10. If the FT value is negative the air-fuel mixture is too rich, it needs to go lean by adding more oxygen; to convert hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide into carbon dioxide and water vapors. If the FT value is positive the air-fuel mixture is too lean, it needs to go rich by adding less oxygen; to reduce the amount of nitrogen oxide emissions into the environment. The target of the computer is to make set FT values to zero (perfect mixture).
Different makes/models terminology for Fuel Trim can vary, some examples are:
- In Honda, the function should be called "PCM Reset" under Engine
- In Toyota, it is called "ECM Reset" under "Engine"
- In BMW, it is called "Reset Adaptation" under "Service Functions" menu
- In Land Rover, it is called "Clear Adaptation" under "Engine"
- In GM, it is called "Fuel Trim Reset" under "Special functions" of the Engine
- In Ford, it is called "Reset Live Memory" under "Engine"
- In Chrysler, it is called "Clear Adaptation"
You can use a scan tool and read your vehicles current FT values under OBD II software then go into the manufactured specified software to reset the fuel trim in order to the computer to "relearn" its original values. See below for screenshots from the Autoboss V30 / PC Max for a BMW:
1) Select Diagnose
2) Choose "Service function"
3) Then select "Clear Adaptations"
Once you have cleared the adaptation, go back to confirm there are no longer any DTC's and you've completed the reset of your Fuel Trim!
Posted by Matthew Yu on Thu, Dec 31, 2009 @ 11:57 AM
Your driving your car and stop at a red light but you noticed that slowing down was a little rough than usual or that there's a noise coming from your brakes. That is a definite sign that you need to get your brakes maintenanced. In most older cars we have the traditional hand brakes that is used to keep the car stationary. Since 2004, VW / Audi has implemented their newer models with Electronic Parking Brakes (EPB). EPB was introduce for a few reasons:
- Mostly all functions in cars these days are controlled by electronics
- Can be used together with other systems; like stability control without involving hydraulics
- Less space needed in the interior for a brake pedal or a handle
- Lowering cost; Uses existing CAN controlled systems to control EPB
EPB allows you to engage and disengage your brakes at the touch of a button on your console but many EPB systems are programmed to self-release with a simply switch in your gears from the park position. Yet replacing your brakes which used to be a simple task has now become more complicated since VW / Audi implemented Electronics Parking Brakes. Processing any repairs on your brakes require a factory level scan tool to open and close your brake calipers.
Below are the instructions to open your rear calipers with screeshots from the AUTOBOSS V30 / PC Max scan tool:
1) Select "Diagnose" and choose with or without CANbus
2) Then Chassis
3) Select "53 - Parking Brakes"
4) Then choose "04 - Introduction to Basic Setting"
5) Enter Channel No. 007 and click "GO"
6) Listen carefully as you will hear the EPB open wide
Below are the instructions to close your rear calipers:
1) Select "Diagnose" and choose with or without CANbus
2) Then Chassis
3) Select "53 - Parking Brakes"
4) Then choose "04 - Introduction to Basic Setting"
5) Enter Channel No. 006 and click "GO"
6) Listen carefully as you will hear the EPB closing
7) Enter Channel No. 010 to perform a function test on the EPB which will cycle s number of times
8) Click "BACK" and then select "02 - Interrogate Fault Memory"
If "No Fault codes found" then you have completed your tasks!
Posted by Matthew Yu on Thu, Dec 24, 2009 @ 12:29 PM
A lot of you folks are probably still working old BMW models with equipped with EWS Immobilizer systems. In BMW, the purpose of the Drive Away Protection system (EWS) was to reduce vehicle theft as mandated by the European Insurance Commission to combat the high theft rate in European. When working on BMWs, from time to time, these EWS control modules are either needed to be replaced or coded or programmed. In this article, we will go through the differences between EWS alignment, EWS coding and programming.
Several generations of EWS had been implemented on BMW vehicles since last decades. Here is a summary of different generations of EWS over the years:
|
Version |
Production Date |
Body |
| EWS I |
1/94 |
E36, E31, E34 |
| EWS II |
1/95 |
E31, E34, E36, E38, E39 |
| EWS III (3.2) |
MY 1997 |
E38 |
| EWS III (3.3) |
5/97
9/97 |
E38
E39, E46, E52, E53 |
| EWS D |
MY 1999 |
Z3 (E36) |
On EWS I, the Starter Immobilization Relay was used to receive signals from Ignition Switch, door lock switch (General Module), Board Computer and Transmission Range Switch. Based on the signals, the Relay will either enable or disable the starter and Digital Motor Electronics (DME) for ignition and injection operation. On EWS II, a key transponder and a EWS control module are used. the transponder is used to energize the EWS control module and sends key identification code to EWS control module. If the code is correct, EWS control module will activate the starter. Then EWS control module sends a unique Individual Serial Number (ISN) to DME for verification, if the ISN matches the one in DME, the drive away protection is canceled and injection and ignition is enabled. Otherwise, the vehicle will be immobilized. On EWS III (3.2), the major changes over the EWS II are a modified control module, revised wiring and the addition of the clutch switch input. All other operations are similar for EWS III are similar to EWS II. On EWS III (3.3) and EWS III D, the new "Rolling Codes" are used instead of a unique ISN code on communication between EWS and DME to add greater theft protection than previous systems. The Rolling Code is basically a changing ISN code which is different everytime the vehicle enters the start sequence.
Replacement Procedure
Keys:Up to 6 additional keys may be ordered as replacement keys. The EWS control module is codeable for only 10 keys (4 delivered with vehicle and 6 replacement)
EWS Control Module:When replacing EWSII Control Module with a new, it must be VIN specific in order to recognize key ID codes. In addition, the EWS control module must be ZCS coded and then perform a synchronization with the DME in order to be fully functional. The EWS Control Module must be synchronized with the DME so that it stores the correct ISN/Rolling Code. There is no limit to the number of times the ISN/Rolling Codes may be changed in the EWS Control Module. ZCS coding on the EWS control module can only be performed using OEM scan tool while some OE-level aftermarket scan tools can perform DME-EWS synchronization (see figure).
DME Control Module: The DME Control Module is not ordered VIN specific and must be programmed during replacement. After programming, the ISN or Rolling Codes are stored to the DME permanently and is not changeable.
Key Activation: Keys that are lost or stolen may be deactivated using OE-level scanner. Any key may be disabled except for the key in the ignition. The lost or stolen key can be identified by the identification of the remaining keys. There is no limit to the number of times a key can be activated or deactivated.